HOKKAIDO : When people talk about skiing powder in Japan, they invariably think Hokkaido, or Niseko, to be more specific. Yet the Big Island is filled with ski resorts, including Sapporo Kokusai Ski Area, just south of Hokkaido’s capital city of Sapporo. “Kokusai” attracts a trendy, urban crowd, but also gets great snow.

Nearby Teine Ski Area has two sections: Olympia (for beginners) and Highland (think steep, with a fun snow park) and is 30 minutes from the entertainment district of Susukino. Yet hands down the easiest access is Mt. Moiwa, reachable from downtown via tramcar. Just southwest of Otaru, Kiroro Ski World is a great place for families.

A visit to Niseko may convince you Australia has invaded Japan, but the two countries are actually getting along famously. So much so, there are direct flights from Australia to Chitose Airport. From there it’s a two-and-a-half-hour bus ride. You can also catch shorter direct flights from Hong Kong, Singapore and Taiwan.

The reason Niseko gets so much attention is simple; it gets some of the biggest, and most consistent, snowfalls in the world. Don’t expect too many “blue bird” days here but, if you like deep, fluffy powder, this is the place to be. Niseko is actually three ski resorts sharing a common pass with 38 lifts and 47 km. of groomed runs and access to off-piste areas you can enter at your own risk. Niseko Moiwa, just beyond the Annupuri area, offers gentle bowls and tree runs without the crowds. The village atmosphere at Niseko adds to the charm.

Nearby Rusutsu is a pleasant, well-run resort just a 45-minute drive away, and it makes an excellent diversion if you want to escape “little Sydney” for a day, especially if you enjoy playing in the trees.

Furano, in Central Hokkaido, doesn’t get as much snow as Niseko but, when the light powder is falling, it’s tough to beat. The only complaints are a lack of backcountry (for that you need to head across the valley to Tokachi-dake) and an overly vigil ski patrol.

Backcountry enthusiasts love Asahidake. Its one gondola has just two runs—two massive runs—circling a big bowl with some great tree skiing.  But the real draw is the (snowshoe) hike to Hokkaido’s highest peak before dropping in and heading back toward the ropeway. Hokkaido’s best kept (powder) secret, could very well be Kamui Ski Links, the nearest resort to Asahikawa.

Have family, will travel? Head east to Club Med Sahoro near Obihiro, where you’ll find luxurious facilities you’d expect from Club Med and arguably the best resort for kids. Toward Hidaka, Mt. Tomamu is a broad mountain in the countryside serviced by four large hotels.

NAGANO : A major venue for the 1998 Winter Olympics, Hakuba features more than 10 resorts snaking up the valley. Hakuba 47 and Hakuba Goryu (share a common pass), Happo-one, Iwatake, Tsugaike, Cortina Kokusai and Norikura are just some of the resorts in the area. Hakuba seems next in line for growth as new accommodations, restaurants and bars are popping up every season. With a long season and arguably Japan’s most challenging terrain, it’s not surprising there’s a buzz in the air.

Shiga Kogen covers a huge area with 21 interlinked ski resorts. The region has some of the highest elevation in Japan and gets some of the finest snow. A free shuttle bus loops around the resorts if you have a lift ticket. As you head up to Shiga, you pass Yamanouchi, a quaint onsen town dotted with free public baths. It’s also the launching point to Jigokudani, the natural baths home to the infamous snow monkeys.

Kijimadaira stands out across the valley from the town of Iiyama and blazed a trail by being the first resort in Japan to allow snowboarding. Further on, Nozawa Onsen is a large ski resort that gets high marks for atmosphere and all-around great terrain. Wander the streets sipping free sake, then have a soak in one of the free public baths.

The nearest Nagano resort to Tokyo, Karuizawa is a great family ski getaway with lots of things to keep the kids occupied, and parents too, with plenty of shopping at the nearby outlet malls.

NIIGATA : If you are looking for a quick day-trip from Tokyo, Yuzawa is the place. Since it is only 200 km. northwest of Tokyo and less than 90 minutes from the capital, city dwellers flock to resorts around Yuzawa. It’s entirely possible to head up in the morning, ski a full day and be home by dinner – although staying the night is preferable.

Apart from an abundance of ski resorts, the prefecture is also home to some of the best sake brewed in Japan. Echigo Yuzawa Station even has a sake museum (and tasting room) as well as a “sakeburo” – natural hot spring bath with a small amount of sake added to aid metabolism and circulation.  But the best bath in town is the rooftop rotenburo (outdoor bath) at the Sporea Hotel with a view of the Northern Alps.

The three-resort complex of Mitsumata-Kagura-Tashiro is a large resort offering fantastic snow and a relaxed attitude to backcountry enthusiasts. The resort also links up to trendy Naeba ski resort via the “Dragondola.”  Outside of the Yuzawa area, Myoko Kogen has some great skiing in a more relaxed, natural atmosphere.

Stretching from Nagano City all the way to the Sea of Japan, it features excellent ski areas such as Myoko Suginohara, Akakura, Ikenotaira Onsen, Seki Onsen and others. It’s also a favorite area for telemarkers.

GUNMA : While neighboring Niigata gets most of the attention, Gunma quietly has some great snow resorts of its own. Located on the border with Niigata in northeast Gunma, Minakami is just 90 minutes from Tokyo. There are nine ski resorts in the Minakami area. Houdaigi is the biggest, with 16 courses from which to choose, and it’s a great resort for families and beginners.

If rails, pipes and parks are your thing, head to Okutone; their night sessions have long runs and don’t close until midnight on weekends. Powder hounds go to Tenjindaira. The elevation and location provides lots of powder snow, and the fast ropeway takes you to some of the best terrain in Japan. Just don’t forget your beacon and avalanche gear!

Ozu-Katashina is another quality area that flies under the radar. Katashina town lies in the shadows of mighty Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Shirane. Oze Iwakura is the largest of the Katashina resorts. This pretty resort, sometimes breaks the “Top Ten” and was one of the longest holdouts to allow snowboarders.

Hotaka Bokujo, on the other hand, is a snowboarder playground with a 90/10 ratio of boarders to skiers. Nearby Oguna Hotaka is another nice mid-sized resort. Manza, to the east of Katashina, is a popular ski and onsen resort area.

TOHOKU : In the ski world, the general rule is the farther you get off the beaten track, the better the tracks. The lucky few who venture to the Tohoku Region (northern Honshu) are rewarded with some of the most enjoyable, and least crowded, skiing in Japan. Aomori’s Hakkoda, Iwate’s Appi Kogen, Akita’s Tazawa-ko, Yamagata’s Zao Onsen and Fukushima’s Alts Bandai and Inawashiro are just a few of the excellent resorts up north. The ski areas tend to be far less crowded, and the snow quality is excellent.

Zao is home to the infamous “snow monsters” (juhyo), evergreens transformed by powerful winter storms into twisted, icy shapes on the upper reaches of Zao’s exposed slopes. Photographers flock to the winter scene, others come to Zao for the many great onsen in the area, but the ski resort itself is better suited for skiers than boarders.

Also in Yamagata, Gassan has the latest season in Japan. In good years you can ski until August, and the resort won’t usually open until April because of accessibility.

OTHER AREAS : Surprisingly, you can ski in Japan from Kyushu all the way to the tip of Hokkaido. Granted, seasons get considerably shorter the farther south you travel (and global warming is not making things easier), but what’s important is—you can ski! If you are truly addicted and just can’t wait for winter, there are even indoor ski resorts where you can get your fix.

THE SHORT OF IT

Rentals? If you are 6’6’’ and wear size 13 shoes, you might want to bring some gear with you. Otherwise, they probably have something that will fit. A rental “set” will set you back about ¥3,000.

Snow quality? Snow in Japan is generally wetter than European or Rocky Mountain snowfalls, since there isn’t as much elevation and ski resorts are relatively close to the ocean. Yet what it lacks in quality, it more than makes up for in sheer quantity. Central Hokkaido and Northern Nagano boast some of Japan’s finest.

Shorts, No Service? Unless posted otherwise, all onsen and sento (bathhouse without natural onsen water) are au natural, so leave the briefs in the basket and go native.

Good eats? The wonderful food is one of the things that makes Japan such a great place to visit, but if you are longing for something less adventurous, there are plenty of safe alternatives. I’ve yet to find a resort that does not serve ramen or curry rice. Hakuba Goryu resort in Nagano features a Subway and a gaijin-size hamburger at the 360 café, Niseko Hirafu has a KFC in the gondola, and Naeba features the Whistler Café. White Season? December to early May (many ski resorts close during Golden Week), depending on conditions. However, Gassan Ski Resort in Yamagata doesn’t even open until late March (no access) and often stays open through July Fees & Queues? Lift lines in Japan tend to be fairly short, since most resorts have (too) many lifts. Some of the more popular resorts can get crowded on weekends and national holidays. A day on the mountain in Japan is much less expensive than what you’d pay in the USA or Europe. A day ticket usually costs between ¥3,000-4,000 (compare that to USD $60 at resorts in the U.S.).

Gearing up? Need to do some last-minute shopping and have some time to kill in Tokyo? Head to the Jimbocho area where outdoor shops and discount stores line the streets. (Hanzomon Line).

The Naked Truth. Hands down (and the rest of your body, for that matter), there is nothing better after a day on the mountain than an onsen. It’s not only relaxing sitting outside in a hot bath with snow falling from the sky, but also soaking away sore muscles makes the next day on the mountain so much better. Most ski resorts have several hot springs in the area, so ask around where you are staying for recommendations. See the Onsen Section on Outdoor Japan Online for some tips. ]]> http://www.summerholidayguide.com/230/japan-ski-guide/feed/ 0 http://www.summerholidayguide.com/218/verbier-ski-holiday/ http://www.summerholidayguide.com/218/verbier-ski-holiday/#comments Tue, 02 Dec 2008 14:11:06 +0000 admin http://summerholidayguide.com/?p=218

Verbier is a picturesque Swiss ski resort nestled on a vast plateau almost 5,000 ft (1,524m) above the valley floor and surrounded by majestic snow-covered mountains. Verbier lies at the heart of Les Quatres Vallées (Four Valleys) and is the hub of this extensive ski area. A sophisticated network of cable cars and gondolas connect all the resorts in the region and provide access to 253 miles (410km) of marked pistes. Verbier is the primary ski resort of French-speaking Switzerland, attracting advanced skiers and snowboarders to its demanding slopes and unlimited off-piste opportunities. Although quaint in appearance, Verbier offers all the modern comforts and facilities of a major resort, with some of the finest cuisine in the region and a raucous nightlife combining English-style pubs and French cafes. Much of Verbier closes down over the summer but despite this it can also be a great summer destination with magnificent scenery, good weather and wonderful walks; during this time it is popular with paragliders.

Skiing: Verbier, and the smaller resorts of Nendaz, Veysonnaz, Thuyon and La Tzoumaz are all linked by one ski pass, which offers skiers and snowboarders one of the largest skiable areas in the Alps, including 255 miles (410km) of pistes of all standards. Verbier itself offers 122 miles (195km) of pistes for various levels of skiers and snowboarders. Advanced and intermediate skiers seek the resort’s most famous slopes on the intimidatingly steep Mont Fort and the off-piste routes from Mont Gelé to Tortin and La Chaux. Verbier is also renowned for its vast amount of challenging off-piste skiing and demanding mogul runs, which are sought after by expert skiers and snowboarders. Beginners are also well catered for with excellent ski schools, nursery slopes in the centre of the village and a wide variety of blue (easy) runs on Savoleyres and Lac de Vaux.

Shopping: The shopping in Verbier is excellent, although expensive. There are a range of boutiques and clothing stores, as well as ski wear and equipment.

Restaurants: A wide choice of restaurants caters to the international crowd with over 60 superb restaurants offering anything from traditional cuisine to Japanese and American fare. Rosalp and the Montpelier restaurants are well known for their award winning food, but are priced accordingly. Local specialities like fondues, raclette and rösti are served in traditional establishments like La Channe Valaisanne, Viex Valais and Le Carrefour. Vegetarians are well catered for. Fer à Cheval is great pizza restaurant that is popular with regulars and is walking distance from the main ski lifts. The main square is surrounded by cafes, patisseries and coffee shops.

Nightlife: Verbier has one of the wilder and more exciting nightlife scenes among the European winter ski resorts. The road running from the main ski lift to the town centre is the heart of the après ski action and there are plenty of bars and cafes around the town square. The Pub Mont-Fort is a popular après-ski spot with the English crowd. A variety of nightclubs stay open and busy until 4am. The Moroccan-themed Casbah Club and Club Taratata play techno-music, largely for a younger crowd. The Farm Club is perhaps the most famous nightspot in Verbier; it remains popular with Verbier old-timers and is the choice for many celebrities. Regular guests keep their own bottle behind the bar and are waived past the long queue. Coco Club is the newcomer in Verbier; entry for non-members is by reservation only and costs SF50 (£21).

Activities: Besides skiing and snowboarding, Verbier also offers heliskiing, a six-mile (10km) toboggan run, ice-skating and cross-country skiing. As a top Alpine sports centre, Verbier also offers a sports and fitness centre, indoor swimming pools, curling, a climbing wall, and paragliding. It is also one of the best sites for hang gliding and parascending. Summer activities also include walking trails and superb mountain biking. The ski resort has good facilities for children of all ages.

Negatives: Verbier’s accommodation, restaurants and ski passes are expensive and queues for the lifts can be long during the holidays. The snow reliability is fairly good in Verbier and it’s usually possible to ski down to the village, but as with all European ski resorts weather conditions are unpredictable and it is can be cloudy.

Activities

Glacier Express: Advertised as the ‘slowest express train in the world’, the Glacier Express is also the most panoramic, and is a breathtaking way to experience the magnificence of the Swiss Alps. The seven and a half hour journey begins daily from Zermatt. The red mountain train crosses more than 291 bridges, winds its way through 91 tunnels and seven valleys and over the 6,670ft (2,033m) Oberalp Pass to the resort of St Moritz, in a spectacular feat of mountain engineering. The train is equipped with large windows for clear viewing and the scenery, including mountain panoramas, quaint villages and wooden chalets, forests and alpine pastures, is stunning. A dining car provides lunch and the mini-bar contains tilted wine glasses to counter the lean of the carriages along the steep mountainous route. The train can be taken in either direction, and if time is short it is possible to travel along a short section of the route, but either way it is advisable to make advance bookings as the train is very popular. There are several departures a day during summer and one a day in winter.

Overview: Grindelwald is a picturesque traditional mountain settlement at the foot of the Eiger mountain surrounded by spectacular alpine landscapes. Popular as both a summer and winter destination, it offers miles of slopes and hiking trails across the Alps, and for non-skiers there are a huge variety of winter activities, from tobogganing to groomed winter hiking tracks. For skiers there are three distinct areas to choose from, with slopes for beginners, intermediates and the challenges of the Eiger glacier for the experienced, as well as lift links to Wengen and Mürren, making this one of the best resorts from which to explore the Jungfrau region.

Overview: Davos was one of the first ski resorts to be created and is the largest in Switzerland: an alpine city with major thoroughfares and hotel blocks lining the streets. Despite its lack of character it is a premier European resort, offering not only accommodation with a reputation for excellence, an endless array of winter and summer recreational activities, crisp mountain air and a health spa, but also five separate ski areas ensuring a superb variety of skiing and snowboarding for all abilities. Nearby is the little sister resort of Klosters, a small traditional village with a quiet and unobtrusive atmosphere that shares the large Parsenn ski area.

Skiing: The best-known and largest area in Davos is the Parsenn, offering intermediates and beginners miles of wide slopes that are ideal for smooth cruising. There are also advanced runs, steep drops and moguls that appeal to experienced skiers. Opposite the Parsenn, Jakobshorn, or the ‘Fun Mountain’, is the second largest area in Davos and has become one of the top snowboarding destinations in the world. Davos also boasts the second largest cross-country ski area in Switzerland, with miles of groomed trails available.

Shopping: Being a ‘mega-resort’ in comparison to the usual village-centred ski destinations in the Alps, Davos also offers mega shopping opportunities, with more than 100 shops, art galleries and boutiques ready and waiting to swipe eager visitor’s credit cards in exchange for a plethora of goods from tinkling cow bells to designer label clothing. It takes hours to explore all the shops clustered mainly along the two main streets around the Davos Platz.

Restaurants: There are scores of restaurants in the greater Davos/Klosters area offering a vast selection to suit every taste and pocket. When it comes to haute cuisine the best are located in the major hotels, but for cosy après ski evenings use the funiculars and cableways and head for a mountain restaurant to sample homegrown local delights. Around the Davos Platz there is an international selection including Italian, American, Mexican, Indian, Chinese and Thai at reasonable prices. Of course the Swiss are best known for the fondue, which is on offer everywhere, but particularly recommended at the Bistro Gentiana. The more upmarket restaurants require advance booking, and many establishments close their kitchens at around 10pm.

Nightlife: Most visitors to Davos turn in fairly early to ensure an early morning on the ski slopes, but those who want to burn the midnight oil won’t be disappointed. There are close on 20 discos and nightclubs in the area offering live entertainment and dancing, and a casino in the Hotel Europa. Focus of the bright lights is on the Davos Platz. The all-night Express Bar heats up after 3am and closes at 7am. There are also several late-night pubs and bars, some with pool tables. Young snowboarders tend to congregate at the bars at the foot of Jakobshorn.

Activities: If you can do it on the snow or ice, you can do it in Davos, particularly skiing of course, from beginners to advanced, with some notorious off-piste adventures thrown in. This is also one of Europe’s most popular snowboarding venues. There are several funparks for boarders, particularly at Jakobshorn. Tobogganing, sledding, sleigh rides and skating events on the largest open-air ice rink in Europe are also popular pastimes. Some worthwhile excursions are a trip through the high Alps to the famous spa of Scoul, or visit St Moritz (90 minutes away). Snowmobiling, snow-shoeing, ice-climbing, hang-gliding and paragliding are on offer, as are numerous indoor sports like tennis, golf and squash, and there is an indoor pool.

Activities

Glacier Express: Advertised as the ‘slowest express train in the world’, the Glacier Express is also the most panoramic, and is a breathtaking way to experience the magnificence of the Swiss Alps. The seven and a half hour journey begins daily from Zermatt. The red mountain train crosses more than 291 bridges, winds its way through 91 tunnels and seven valleys and over the 6,670ft (2,033m) Oberalp Pass to the resort of St Moritz, in a spectacular feat of mountain engineering. The train is equipped with large windows for clear viewing and the scenery, including mountain panoramas, quaint villages and wooden chalets, forests and alpine pastures, is stunning. A dining car provides lunch and the mini-bar contains tilted wine glasses to counter the lean of the carriages along the steep mountainous route. The train can be taken in either direction, and if time is short it is possible to travel along a short section of the route, but either way it is advisable to make advance bookings as the train is very popular. There are several departures a day during summer and one a day in winter.

Overview: Meribel is in the centre of the Trois Vallées, which also incorporates Courchevel and Val Thorens. Together they form the largest ski area in the world. Unlike most French ski resorts, Meribel has retained an atmosphere of the traditional skiing village, despite having grown enormously in recent years. Meribel-Mottaret is situated two miles (4km) up the valley and is better suited for the skiing, but not the nightlife. The resort was founded by the English early in the last century and is still very popular with Brits.

Skiing: The Trois Vallées ski area is one of the best and most extensive in the world (10 times larger than Vail, the largest ski resort in the States), and Meribel is in the middle between Courchevel and Val Thorens. Meribel has a vast choice for beginner and intermediate skiers, but those with more experience will want to test out the slopes in Courchevel and Val Thorens. Snowboarders will find lots of challenging slopes and couloirs and when the snow is good there is some great off-piste.

Shopping: Meribel is stuffed with lots of good-value ski shops. Those with more expensive taste can ski over to Courchevel 1850. There are plenty of mini-supermarkets for self-caterers as well as a fine selection of bakeries and delicatessens.

Restaurants: There are some seriously good restaurants in Meribel; get local advice on arrival and book early for the best. There’s more choice for those happy with a fondue and nice bottle of red, but it is still worth booking, especially during the chalet girl’s night off. For independent reviews on Meribel’s restaurants see meribel-unplugged.co.uk.

Nightlife: The nightlife in Meribel is not as wild as in some ski resorts, but there’s still plenty going on. Dick’s T-bar is the best-known nightclub and the queues can be long. Meribel-Mottaret has few choices and closes up earlier.

Activities: Paragliding can be organised and is a great option for getting down to Meribel when the snow’s not so good. For whiteout days there’s a cinema, bowling, ice-skating, a gym and a swimming pool. Some of the smarter hotels offer spa treatments.

Negatives: Meribel is quite spread out and much of the accommodation is far from the slopes. The resort is quite low and it is often not possible to ski to the main village.

Overview: Aspen’s reputation precedes it; the name is synonymous with glitz, glamour, unparalleled skiing and spectacular mountain scenery. Most reviews would have one believe that it is a resort exclusively for the rich and famous. Although this elite resort does see super stars such as Jack Nicholson and Cher, anyone with a lot of cash can experience the powder snow, superb skiing, sophisticated accommodation as well as good dining and high-society shopping, with an unrivalled range of winter and summer activities. Summer is more affordable; prices are lower at this time, and there are numerous trails for hiking, biking and horse riding, as well as renowned cultural festivals of dance and music. The resort attracts thousands of Americans as well as European visitors every year. Aspen began as a silver mining town with the discovery of the world’s largest silver nugget in the 1870s; after the crash of the silver market its economy dwindled until it was recognised as a prime ski location. The ostentatious après-ski is a celebrity’s watch of ‘who’s who’.

Skiing: The region has four separate ski areas: with gentle slopes for beginners and wide cruising opportunities at Buttermilk; intermediate and expert terrain at Snowmass and on Aspen Mountain (Ajax); and outstanding extreme skiing, views and the longest vertical drop in Colorado at Aspen Highlands. The Highlands is also the least pretentious of the ski areas.

Shopping: Whether you holiday in Aspen for the winter sports or just to be seen (or both), you will have to schedule quite a large slice of your time to the resort’s other main activity, which is world-class shopping. Unfortunately prices are world class too, but that should not deter even the most budget-conscious browser from ‘just looking’. The retail options extend from home-grown stores offering handcrafts to high-fashion designer boutiques, jewellery to die for, antiques and collectibles, and even a unique pet’s paradise where you can outfit your pooch in style. Those who did not come well prepared can, of course, also find the latest in ski-wear at local upscale outlets like Gorsuch, where celebrities flock for the latest in mountain style.

Restaurants: All that crisp, cold air and exercise ensures that Aspen’s visitors are a hungry bunch, but even the heartiest appetites go well satisfied in the resort which has a huge range of restaurant offerings, from takeaways to gourmet fine dining. Some recommendations include Pinons, with its delicious menu which includes game dishes and an awesome view of Aspen Mountain; the eclectic Woody Creek Tavern, where the burgers are sought after by some celebrity regulars; and the Kenichi sushi den with its lively, buzzing atmosphere.

Nightlife: Après ski is a vital part of any winter holiday, and Aspen pulls out all the stops to ensure its visitors an unrivalled night out on the town. Sophisticated social spots abound, from comfy cigar bars to trendy cocktail lounges, while the younger set will find live music venues to get their groove on like Shooters or Elevation. Not to be missed is The Red Onion, Aspen’s first ever bar which has been serving up drinks ever since 1892 when the mountain town was a rowdy mining settlement.

Activities: Aspen is mainly regarded as America’s prime winter resort, with downhill skiing providing its lifeblood since 1936. The Silver Queen Gondola transports skiers to the top of Aspen Mountain above the town to take on the expert and intermediate slopes. Two miles (3km) west of town the Buttermilk area provides novice and intermediate runs, while further out at Snowmass and Aspen Highlands families can enjoy a variety of types and levels of snow fun. Cross-country trails snake through the national forest. Aspen is not only a winter wonderland, however. In summertime when hotel rates are lower, the arts and sports take over as main attractions, with an annual music festival being a big drawcard. Fishing on the lakes and river is popular, and there are excellent golf courses. Hikers enjoy the trail leading to the Conundrum Hot Springs, and sightseers fill their time with the Aspen Arts Museum and the Wheeler Stallard House Museum with its Victorian charm.

Negatives: As a top-rate ski resort, the quality is reflected in the prices and as such is not for those seeking a budget ski vacation. It can also get rather crowded.