Overview: Kusadasi is one of the most swollen resort towns on the southern Aegean Coast, overflowing with shiploads of tourists in summer who enlarge the year-round population several times over. Once a small fishing village, today the busy town is packed with curios and carpet shops; its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus making it an ideal base for Aegean cruise ships. Despite the frenzied tourism, Kusadasi is situated amid splendid coastal scenery and several significant archaeological sites, including the three well-preserved Ionian settlements of Miletus, Priene and Didyma. There are plenty of good hotels and restaurants, and ferries link it with the nearby Greek islands of Samos and Mykonos.
Shopping: The Grand Bazaar in Kusadasi, near the harbour, is one of Turkey’s largest shopping treasure troves, crammed with 1,000 or more stores and stalls open seven days a week from 9am until midnight. Bargaining for a variety of attractive items, like leather jackets, sandals, carpets and hand-made jewellery, is a fun experience, usually accompanied by a glass of tea. Despite the traditional trading atmosphere, most merchants accept credit cards, travellers cheques and even foreign currency for purchases.
Restaurants: All budgets and all tastes are amply catered for among Kusadasi’s dozens of restaurants, cafes and lokantas. Most visitors opt for sampling Turkish cuisine or enjoying the sumptuous seafood on offer, but there are numerous alternatives from curry to Chinese and burgers. Acknowledged as one of the best seafood restaurants is the Cinar Fish Restaurant, where guests can watch their meal prepared in the open kitchen and dine with a view of the sea. For top class Turkish specialities the Konyali Restaurant opposite the marina, and the Erzincan near the post office, are hard to beat.
Nightlife: Nights in Kusadasi throb with action, particularly along the town’s pulsating Bar Street in the old town centre, lined with pubs and clubs. One of the hottest spots is the huge open air disco, Ecstasy Bar, featuring top European DJs. Jimmy’s Irish Bar at the start of Bar Street is a favourite gathering place for young Brits. Those looking for something more sedate will find cabaret bars, Turkish folk taverns, or cosy jazz clubs tucked away.
Activities: Kusadasi’s clean, sandy beaches are a major drawcard for visitors, whether simply for sunbathing and swimming, or for indulging in a myriad of watersports that are on offer through local operators at the numerous ‘beach clubs’. The turquoise Aegean waters are particularly popular for scuba diving and snorkelling. A variety of boat trips are also available. Water-babies will also enjoy Kusadasi’s three thrilling aqua-parks. Away from the water active holiday-makers can indulge in a horse-back safari, or head off on a jeep safari to get down and dirty on muddy nature trails. The surrounding region of Anatolia is crammed with interesting historical and archaeological sites and dozens of excursions are available for visitors to explore these, particularly the ruins of ancient Ephesus.
Negatives: Kusadasi’s beaches become extremely crowded during the height of the summer season. Touts and PRs outside restaurants and bars can be annoying.
Attractions
Ephesus
Ephesus is the biggest and best-preserved ancient city in the country and is one of the world’s spectacular historical sites. The city was established with a harbour on the mouth of the Cayster River, and in the 2nd century BC it became the most important port and commercial trading centre in Anatolia, from Alexander the Great and the Hellenistic period to capital of Roman Asia under Augustus in 133 BC. The city went into final decline during the Byzantine era with the silting up of the harbour and by 527 AD it was deserted. The city is also important as the early seat of Christianity, visited by St Paul, whose letters to the Ephesians are recorded in the New Testament. The site needs little imagination to see what a functioning Roman city would have looked like, but guides are available and can offer a rich insight into the history and architecture of the ruins. Among the amphitheatres, murals and mosaics, baths, fountains, brothels and columns, the chariot-worn streets lead to some of the highlights, including the enormous Library of Celsus, the impressive Temple of Hadrian, a row of public latrines and the Grand Theatre where Paul preached to the Ephesians. The city was originally dedicated to the goddess Artemis and her once-magnificent temple was considered to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
